What’s up guys welcome to the life of the one froth we’re back?
We’re gonna make a little recap of this season. I mean it’s been one of the craziest seasons. Ever I served the biggest waves of my life. I mean this season. I surfed more big waves than the last couple years, really combination of size, perfection, consistency. I mean we saw the biggest cleanest, most consistent waves. Ever that’s the truth. Usually we got a couple swells a year. This time I was like non-stop and with a lot of sessions also a lot of injuries. I hurt my rib I’ve fractured my arm and at the moment, I’m out of the water, but it was worth it. You know. I really I feel, like you know, I really elevate it. My performance and uh, I’m super stoked with that. I feel like every year. It’s the same story comes to the end of the season. Everyone starts pulling out their measuring tapes and start measuring their. You know like who’s got the biggest wave claims start appearing all over the internet. We’ve seen it so many times in the past, huge waves being written, but even bigger claims you know like 100 for wave here, 100 foot wave there, we’ve seen like new cnn surfers today. The truth is at the end of the year. Those ways haven’t even made the top four finalists at the wsl xxl awards. Um. You know like when you claim the waves bigger than they are. It’s not good for the sport. You know. Obviously it’s no one’s fault. You know media over exaggerates everything that happens. You know nothing against those waves, nothing against those surfers. They’re. All great surfers. I admire their courage, but it just gets out of hand. Sometimes you know, like I mean claims of 100 for waves and them not even making the cut of the biggest waves of the season there’s something wrong.
The truth is you know. Even those claims have been made that hundredfold waves have been served. The record is still at rodrigo um for 80 foot wave and in my eyes this is the perfect example of a huge wave. You know a wave that breaks from top to bottom all the way when you look at a wave, you can’t look at a picture you know like picture is very deceiving and people make that mistake. They look at a wave, but that’s the moment where the wave stands tall and then it just feathers down. You know that happens a lot in israel, especially when big mama breaks into the right. A lot of those waves are deceiving, but at the end of the day they just roll down and they don’t make top to bottom.
If you speak to any professional surfer, anyone that dedicates their lives to the sport, everyone is looking for that huge wave that breaks top to bottom, and I do think that griegos, cautious wave is really the best example, because it’s a huge wave in motion that breaks top to bottom and the guy serves it in a very extreme way. This year has been a crazy season. I mean insane. You know, january 8th swell was one of the biggest swells I’ve ever seen in my life. I partner up with scooby we surfed all day. For me, it was one of the best days of surfing all of my life. I served some of the biggest waves of my life early morning I had this wave that stood tall really really tall, but then it feathered down like it didn’t break top to bottom, and I I remember finishing that wave and and scooby was like wow. That wave was huge and I was like dude really like. I thought that wave didn’t even break. He was like bro, it broke, it broke it broke but like from my perspective, I couldn’t even look up and see the wave break and obviously like if you look at the water footage the way the wave stands up tall. I mean it’s a huge wave on that moment, but when it breaks it didn’t break as tall um, I mean I had a wave in the middle of the day.
That was definitely like for me. That’s my highlight of the day you know I took off in front of the lighthouse pretty deep behind the peak and I just like surfed. It really well like on that thin line of success and failure where you’re like right in the impact zone, but just further enough to make the wave I mean that wave broke top to bottom. I remember looking up and the thing was so big and this thing just broke right there- that was my biggest wave there’s a lot of measurements being made by gigenchidense, claiming that three records have been broken, including lucas’s uh wave early morning, fair enough. It’s a huge wave, the guy wrote it perfectly behind the peak. The wave is big, but I mean rodriguez. Cautious wave is huge. I don’t know if lucas’s wave is as big and the claims are. It’s a 93-foot wave scooby wrote a huge wave that is record-breaking as well above the 80-foot range. My wave is supposedly above the 80 foot range as well, which is a record-breaking wave, but for the moment these are only claims at the end of the year. I think bill sharp will gather all the information and kind of make a proper measurement from different angles of the biggest waves written that day and make a proper uh announcement of who has ridden the biggest waves.
I mean after that generally swell. I thought like that’s over: it doesn’t get better than this. You know huge perfect everything clicked in 4.5 meter swell 17 seconds offshore wind, the boys rode huge waves. I had the session of my lifetime, but the truth is a month and a half later, a even bigger swell arrived. I was injured. I had bruised ribs. My doctor told me I was gonna be a month out of the water. I was two weeks in and I mean I looked at the swell. The numbers were looking even bigger than the january swell. I just thought dude I can. I can hold on to a rope, I mean it’s pretty bad.
I can puncture my lungs, but this swell is worth it and I end up riding one of my best ways of the day. A super steep inside one double up the way I want to ride it steep and deep right on that impact zone. One of the best waves of my life told him by the man lucas highlights of that day. For me are definitely you know, the way lucas was surfing was insane. I don’t think he has any record-breaking waves to be honest, but the way he was surfing like air dropping down the waves, which is mind-blowing vinnie early morning rode a huge wave. I was doing second rescue and I remember how the wave rolled in was so tall, but then, when it broke, I was like you know that didn’t broke the way. I thought it was gonna break. You know that was like kind of like just rolled down and like those big rights in front of the peak they’re, very deceiving, mason barnes got a huge wave at the end of the day. The water angle is just straight on from the water filmed perfectly. The wave looks huge the thing about nazareth.
I mean you can’t judge a wave over the years. I really learned this. You can’t judge a wave by one angle. You know you got to really look it in a holistic way. You got to compare angles. You know, like water angle, sometimes looks huge. The land angle doesn’t look that big and I feel like with mason’s wave. It looks huge from the water angle because, like the you know, the filmer lauren was perfectly set up. When we look at from land, it doesn’t look as big, but definitely one of the biggest waves of the day, I don’t think it’s 100 for wave, I don’t think it’s bigger than cautious wave, but we’ll let the scientists decide at the end of the year. Who else had a great performance I mean the way he was surfing was really sick. Amazing performance as well I mean drama serum- I mean I’m so proud of jerome 45 years old, representing portugal. I grew up surfing with him. I mean, like I, come out with this video and speaking here, kind of making a reflection of the of the season. I’m I’m not trying to kind of point fingers at anyone. I’m not trying to give any negative feedback take away from people. You know I’ve been around the world. I know. What’s a big wave, I think the community is all agrees on. What’s a big wave, what’s a small wave, I just feel like the system is a little bit broken. I think there needs to be a more scientific fact on how to measure waves. You know we should see the whole evolution of the sport as a whole. As a community to leave a legacy for the future measuring waves shouldn’t come down to who’s, got the best pr agent who makes the biggest media war who screams the loudest um, and it seems, like you, know, it’s going towards that direction. Everyone’s more focused on kind of like letting letting the media do the talk.
Instead of you know, let the scientists do the measurements, you know and I think that’s wrong. Um and you know at the moment we got. We haven’t had one of the best seasons of the year and I really hope the surfing community gets together to have the right entity uh get together to measure waves. It’s an end of the season here. I hope you guys enjoyed it. I hope you guys felt entertained. I had a lot of fun and without you guys, none of this could happen. I would like to tell you as well: we got a new font froth collection. We got some really cool sweatshirts, some hats and t-shirts, for you guys to support the series and I’m really appreciative of all the support all through these years. You guys are the bosses without you, this wouldn’t be possible. Hope you guys enjoyed it and I’ll see you guys in the next episode