Perfect Summer Slabs | POV Surfing + More

Summer’s always a weird time for me, I find it hard to properly switch off from the grind trying to be creative, also building in the business coaching filming I don’t like not being productive. Sometimes though, the most productive thing to do is to do nothing to just sit and be for a bit, but then I check this well and I mean that 30 minutes of relaxation is enough. For now

you do any breathing exercises yeah mate. It’s __ pretty big out there. I was getting nervous on mornings like this um do well with it when they have that coaching. Oh, what’s this it’s nice and shallow,

careful bro, the eddy whew wow, oh a little set coming first one! No! I reckon the second one: oh, that was almost not bad. Here we go yeah yeah boys we’re on all right. Where is it gonna go? I reckon I’m in a good spot here, whew one way one. Sometimes I just find that, in between the solid days, you kind of just need, like a like a break to just go and play on on some little playful ways: it’s so stimulating surfing heavy waves and getting barrel, so I just get overwhelmed. So these little sessions are just beautiful to mix it up. Ah time to grab some bricky get off our porch watch that get off our porch, my porch. What are you eating? Maybe some I thought you were having wraps. I had a wrap now, I’m having me and then cowboy make me some eggs coffee going on. 100, of course, say no vibe berry, though now yeah, I’m happy with it. Yeah yeah really happy with it. That’s right. It’s just an eating shot. Only a surfer knows true hunger, there’s nothing more satisfying than coming in and eating good food after fine holy __.

This bloke has got some legs. This bike is putting on a clinic. I live a paradoxical existence. The core surfer in me hates filming all my sessions that soft voice in the back of my mind, that makes me aware of the camera, really does take away a part of that special flow state. We get to experience whilst riding a wave the storyteller in me, though, loves it. It’s an exciting thrill having planned a shot when the elements all come together and executing that shot to share it with you guys, that’s a nice feeling too, and it’s this somewhat uninteresting push and pull yin and yang. That may be the very point of it all anyway and me teetering in between and balancing the two is kind of a fun thing to do.

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